Dosa Express: from the fields of Andhra Pradesh to the heart of San Mateo

New South Indian restaurant offers unique culinary experience and warm community

By Neel G.

When I walked in, I was immediately hit with the home-y, fermented smell of fresh dosas and aroma of a variety of chilled chutneys. It looked like more of a hole-in-the-wall before entering, but instead I found a vast space decorated with exquisite Indian murals depicting holy cows in nature. And, the noise of chatting families and sizzling dosas only added to the consuming experience I found myself in.

And after I was seated, I was met with a friendly face asking what I would like to order today. It was the face of Ashok Nadikattu, who manages the restaurant his brother Rahul Nadikattu owns. The two brothers, who are “practically best friends” as Ashok put it, are responsible for Dosa Express—the hottest new South Indian restaurant in the area.

Dosa Express is their second restaurant. The first, Ruchulu, was located in San Jose and solely owned by Rahul. But they decided to begin Dosa Express in January of this year, launching it in late september.

Dosa Express specializes in making dosas, an Indian savory crepe often paired with spiced potatoes, sambar (a rich, earthy, tangy, spicy vegetable stew), and chutneys. However, their extensive menu offers other foods for breakfast through dinner that are worth exploring. While other Indian restaurants offer Westernized versions of meals, Dosa Express cooks authentic, unique dishes that are hard to find elsewhere.

This includes off-the-menu items. For those willing to try new flavors, the corn-paneer dosa impeccably balances spicy, tart, and salty in one beautiful stuffed circle. It pairs perfectly with the Chikku Lassi, a fruity and very distinctly earthy tasting shake made from sapota fruit. Even as someone who has grown up eating Indian food every day of my life, this was the first time I tried this unique beverage, but it surely won’t be the last.

The Nadikattu brothers are influenced by their childhood life in order to deliver such foods.

They grew up in Andhra Pradesh, a highly agricultural state where they were raised next to fields and farms,supplying fresh farm to table food. They moved to San Jose to complete their Masters in computer science before starting Dosa Express.

“We grew up with the same recipes and techniques that we serve and use now,” Ashok explained. “South Indians are very traditionalist, so the restaurant allows us to pass down the dishes that we hold so close to our heart.”

Their tastiest authentic dishes include medu vada, a savory donut-shaped breakfast food or appetizer made from deep fried lentils and rice flour. They aren’t like the soggy and flavorless ones I have tried before; before sinking your teeth into the tender middle, you can hear the satisfying crunch of the crust. And when you dip it into some hot sambar, the flavors just flawlessly melt together on your tongue. And for the main dish, I recommend one of two dosas: If you’re looking for a slightly thicker, more savory and spicy dosa, I would go with the mysore masala dosa. But if you’re in the mood for a crispy, thin, and saltier one, the rava masala dosa is a must-try. To balance out the rush of savory and spicy dosas, order their badam milk, a sweet almond milk topped with cardamom and saffron that is the newest addition to their menu.

The restaurant is exceptional, but the two brothers know they couldn’t have done it alone. Their staff doesn’t just cook meals and serve guests; they’re the glue of the restaurant, who’ve been working with Rahul Nadikattu for five to seven years to serve families who often turn into regulars.

“Dosa Express isn’t just a restaurant, it’s a community.”

“Our staff is basically part of our family,” remarked [ashok]. “Dosa Express isn’t just a restaurant, it’s a community.”

For the team, San Mateo was an ideal spot. Due to the city’s safety and cultural melting pot, the brothers are ecstatic to continue their business here. Next to San Mateo High and right off of downtown, they hope to attract customers in the heart of the city.

“I meet so many different types of people. We aim to host a space where we can expose people from different cultures and backgrounds to Indian food,” noted [ashok]. “We are excited to grow our community in San Mateo.”

Before heading out, end the meal on a sweet note. Gulab jamun, a popular Indian dessert of fried dough balls soaked in a warm, sweet rosy syrup, was my personal favorite. Usually, I find it overwhelmingly sugary and not rosy at all, but that wasn’t the case here; the flavors shined through beautifully. If you want to opt for a chilled option, their rasmalai, or spongy patties soaked in a milky syrup with hints of cardamom and saffron, is also an excellent choice. Both desserts melt in your mouth, leaving you with a delicious, almost flower-y after-taste.

As their business grows, they hope to branch out and start new restaurants elsewhere in the bay.

“Dosa Express began because of a random decision to start a new restaurant,” said Ashok. “But this journey has been amazing, and we are committed to continue serving the Bay Area with authentic South Indian food.”